The walk into Sarria started out as a bit of a write-off, and turned into one of our favourite days on the Camino.
We were intimidated about the walk when we woke up. I hadn’t properly researched this stage when booking accommodations and saw that there were actually two routes into Sarria: A short 18-kilometer route with many hills and few resources along the way, or a long 26-kilomeyer route through Samos. We didn’t feel up to the more difficult route, but the easier route was longer than we felt comfortable with. Then, the weather predicted lightning for 10 a.m. and we felt worried about the prospect of getting trapped in a storm.
We wished we had booked a night in Samos and broken the stage into two.
We decided to go for breakfast and call a taxi to Sarria, but even though that felt like the best plan, we felt like we were shortchanging ourselves. And after our last taxi, we were not eager to get in another.
We found a couple of our camino friends at breakfast and they told us that they were waiting for the bus to Sarria. The bus came at 10:30 for 2 euros. We decided to join them on the bus.
Another woman in the café joined us at the bus stop, and we all got onto the little bus to Sarria together.
When the bus stopped in Samos, Sandra turned and said “we should have got off here.” When it stopped a second time a kilometer later, we impulsively jumped off. The woman who had got on the bus with us saw us getting off and she decided to do the same, and soon the five of us were standing on the side of the road.
After introductions, we set off with our new friend, Melina, toward Sarria. We had 13 kilometers to walk, which sounded like the perfect distance.
The walk was beautiful and quiet. We went through forests on mostly-smooth nature trails.
As we neared the halfway mark, it started to pour rain, but we stumbled upon a little albergue/café that looked warm and inviting. We could smell the wood fire from the stove and we all agreed we needed to stop in.
The place was someone’s home, and they had a wood fire going in the dining room. We ordered meat and cheese platters, as well as a plate of roasted vegetables, and the owners brought Spanish tortilla to accompany our feast.
The meal was warm and cozy, and the hosts were kind and welcoming. Sandra tried to pay 3 times, but each time she asked for the bill, something else was brought out for us. We couldn’t leave without cake, and the girls were each given homemade “baby’s first camino” ornaments which we hung on the stroller.
The rain had eased up by the time we were done eating, and we finished our walk to Sarria grateful we had made the impulsive decision to get off the bus. When we arrived in town, we felt accomplished and proud.
We took a rest day in Sarria, and this time, we did no sightseeing. We simply relaxed and rested.
Sarria is the point where many new people join the Camino, as the 100-kilometers from Sarria to Santiago mark the minimum distance required to receive a compostela certificate at the end. As such, reaching Sarria felt like a significant accomplishment. The end is in sight, and we are determined to finish strong!
Sometimes quick decisions turn out to be the best, like a new friend, great scenery and kind people who welcome you into their home. And then feed you, and give you baby ornaments that have the camino on them, sounds like a very good day! One step at a time, Santiago is calling you!
I am also following a retired couple from Oregon who are a few days ahead of you. They are taking the alternate routes and ignoring the traditional stages and village stop overs. They walked through Samos and spoke very highly of the family who hosted your stopover. They claim their meal was the best so far as was the hospitality. As for the price of the multi course meal – ” whatever you think is fair.
Very cool that you also discovered that off tge beaten track spot.
A definite destination on our ‘Stop and Smell the Roses’ Camino next spring.
Enjoy your final 100km. Keep in mind the wisdom of a fellow peregrino when I, during our 2016 Camino, complained of the multitudes of walkers, tour groups, chattering groups of young people etc etc. She suggested that during the final 100 km the Camino gods are subtly preparing you for your return to the ‘normal’ world!
I highly recommend stopping here. It is just before Sivil, and was possibly our favourite stop so far. You’ll love it.
I am also following a retired couple from Oregon who are a few days ahead of you. They are taking the alternate routes and ignoring the traditional stages and village stop overs. They walked through Samos and spoke very highly of the family who hosted your stopover. They claim their meal was the best so far as was the hospitality. As for the price of the multi course meal – ” whatever you think is fair.
Very cool that you also discovered that off tge beaten track spot.
A definite destination on our ‘Stop and Smell the Roses’ Camino next spring.
Enjoy your final 100km. Keep in mind the wisdom of a fellow peregrino when I, during our 2016 Camino, complained of the multitudes of walkers, tour groups, chattering groups of young people etc etc. She suggested that during the final 100 km the Camino gods are subtly preparing you for your return to the ‘normal’ world!
What a wonderful couple of days!
I am just so pleased with the beautiful memories you are making! I want to eat cheese and cakes by a fire in someone’s home! Thanks for sparking new dreams in all of us.