When we left our albergue in Liñares, it was a cool morning, but the clouds and fog from last night had lifted, offering stunning views as we walked.
I was nervous about the day’s descent, as descents have been the hardest to navigate with the stroller. The weight of the stroller pulls it down the hill, and we have to work against it to keep it from taking off. Uphill is hard, but downhill feels more treacherous. We tried to have a hand brake installed back in Logroño, but had no such luck, and we have regretted not buying a stroller equipped with one already.
The first section of today’s walk was on rolling hills, gradually descending, but still forcing a few climbs. At one point, the hill was so steep that Sandra and I found ourselves slipping on the gravel as we pushed, and we needed another set of hands to pull the stroller from up front. We got to the top to a cafe full of pilgrims and a round of applause.
As we continued our descent, it began to rain, and it was wet and cold when we reached Fonfria for lunch. We hung our ponchos on the stroller and stepped gratefully into the warm bar where we had sidras, chicken and rice, and homemade cheese. Cows were herded past the window and we were told the cheese had been made with milk from those very cows. It was delicious, mixed with nuts and honey.
From Fonfria, we continued down the path, stopping as more cows were herded past us. The rain was coming down heavier, and Addie needed to jump in every puddle. The slope began to increase and we began to worry about the descent. Had it been a dry day, we probably would have pushed on, but both Sandra and I slipped a little in the mud, and the slope was only going go get more severe. We stopped and called a taxi for the final 6 kilometers into Triacastela.
We don’t regret calling a taxi, but the “taxi” we got, we regretted. It was a hair-raising ride down the mountain, in a bike van with fewer seat belts than passengers, and a driver who flew far faster than the speedlimit and who was unhappy that we refused to take Eloise out of her carseat to make room on the seat for me. The 6 kilometer trip cost us 35 euros, but we were just glad to be alive when we got to town. As soon as we got to our guesthouse, we took a moment to breathe it off, kicking ourselves for ever even getting in the van.
We did laundry and went for dinner in Triacastela, where we saw all of our Camino friends. Addie walked from table to table, talking to all the people she knows. She was full of confidence and so happy to be able to see everyone.
Tomorrow we head to Sarria, and we will take a rest day before the final 100 kilometers begin!
I’ve been following you since you arrived at the Camino. Congratulations on figuring out how to make it work for you and the little ones! How on earth you manage to faithfully post each day after navigating it all, is beyond me. You have an amazing outlook, expressing some of the challenges, fears and frustrations, but always including some joy and optimism. Looking forward to your last 100km! Buen Camino!
So glad you survived the van ride down, sometimes you have not much choice in the matter and the situation. Love those cows, but then i love cows! Addie in the mud is a great picture, you have got to love what entertains a child in the outdoors. I know Sarria is what so many strive to reach as it then is so close to the end, so have a good night in that place and to seeing all of the people joining in on that last little bit. YOU ARE ALMOST THERE!
What a description of the ride down the mountain. The hairs on my arms were starting to rise. Alls good that ends well. What I do take away from this day is Addie walking from table to table chatting with new friends. A life lesson
Hugs & kisses. I assume you know who I am Sandra
I get very emotional seeing your pictures and reading all your wonderful descriptions every day. Everyone has their own stories to treasure about walking the Camino!
Building memories together and making friends from around the world that you will keep in touch with for years to come. Anyone that has met you will never forget your wonderful family and how you have handled everything.
Jane, friend of gg.
Early on, my thoughts went ahead to the climb to O’Cebreito and the rolling hills of Galicia. You are navigating it all perfectly with a smart combination of muscle power and taxi. Its your Camino and the way you are doing it is so impressive, so inspiring.
Truly, if you had the time and inclination, you are generating material for a Camino best seller. Your adventure so much more than the tale of a couple trekking with their kids.
Buen Camino
I’ve thought a little about writing a book about this adventure at some point. We’ll see what happens, but I think I’d like to!
I love all of these little adventures so much! And the of 5 times I’ve been most afraid while traveling I think 4 of them have been in taxis, so I feel that one hard!