This was a hard day, but the challenges were what made the day so incredible. When we finally reached our destination, we were both exhausted and overjoyed.
Today, we planned to walk from our guesthouse outside of Rabanal del Camino to Manjarin, about 11 kilometers away, and then taxi to Ponferrada, as we have heard the walk would have had a difficult descent that we didn’t feel able to take on with the stroller. We thought 11 kilometers would make for a short day. We would get into Ponferrada by lunchtime. Our tired legs would get a bit of a break.
We were so very wrong.
We did only walk the 11 kilometers, but most of the walk was uphill, over rocky paths that jarred the stroller violently. Neither girl could ride in the stroller on that path, so we had to try to convince Addie to walk along with us for large sections of the trail. She handled the walk like a champion, chasing butterflies and pretending to take photos with a rock for a camera.
We got stopped a few times to have our stroller mansplained to us — unhelpful men stopping to explain the “better” way to push, as if 600 kilometers into this thing we don’t already know the stroller like the back of our hands. It’s actually not better to pull instead of pushing, but thank you for turning it backwards for me. Normally, we would take any advice with gratitude, but the air of condescension that came along with the advice today, accompanied by no actual help, irked us.
It took us hours, but we managed the climb. A few sections took forever. I’m amazed we didn’t pop a tire.
We climbed toward Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross at the summit of the climb. Here, people bring rocks to place all of their worries to leave behind at the foot of the cross. It has been a long, hard couple of years, and we looked forward to leaving some of that behind. Each grueling step felt significant as we worked so hard to reach Cruz de Ferro as a family.
We took pictures and left our rocks and our worries behind.
From there it was a short, but still rocky, descent to Manjarin. We flagged down a taxi who told us he would be back in 1 hour, then we had drinks from a juice cart while Addie played with the owner’s puppy.
We got into Ponferrada at 5 p.m., too exhausted to want to explore. We showered and found a quick dinner, but we didn’t get to see the city like we’d hoped. Maybe tomorrow on our walk out of the city.
So glad that you made it to the cross and Ponferrada. Sounds like kind of a hard and rock filled day. But you did it! Addie has had her share of amimals lately- chickens, a kitty and a little dog. Tell her that her millions of ant friends are looking for her, and there are baby cows at the far neighbours. It sleeted hard here yesterday at times, it was freezing, better today. Walk on.
Wow what a tough day but you made it . I can not imagine pushing a stroller on that rough trail and hauling two kids as well . You deserve a medal. Maybe a rest day is in order .
Too bad you didn’t have an opportunity to shame the men who gave advice but no help. Thank goodness you have had more memories of kindness along the way.
It warms my heart and puts a smile on my face when I see pictures of Addie experiencing this adventure
Until we meet again
Hugs & kisses
I love the sense of accomplishment coming off this post. The cross sounds moving, and the fact you all worked hard to reach it together feels even more meaningful!
It was a really meaningful day. All of us worked really hard (except Eloise, who slept through it all). I was so proud of Addie’s determination and endurance
I struggled to get myself over that mountain. Can’t even begin to imagine doing it while either pushing a double stroller or carrying a baby or when as little as Addie. You are all champions. Buen camino.