We didn’t walk the 21 kilometers to Pamplona, not even close, but the 6 kilometers we walked were enough of a challenge.
The day started out rough. We all slept longer than planned, and still we were tired and grumpy when we began our walk. Homesickness and mental fatigued have kicked in, and Sandra and I agreed that we would get to Pamplona, where we had a room booked and a scheduled bag drop off, and then we would give the girls a rest day.
As we headed out of Zubiri and onto the nature paths toward Larrasoaña, our spirits lifted. It was a crisp morning, the path slick with mud, and clouds threatening more rain, but the cool weather felt refreshing. Eloise bounced along happily in the chest carrier and Addie rested with some well-earned screen time in the stroller.
It quickly became clear, however, that it would not be an easy walk. We had thought we would walk the 5.5 kilometers to Larrasoaña in an hour and half, and then stop for breakfast. Then we would walk at a slower pace after breakfast, with Addie out of the stroller and walking alongside us. Instead, the walk to Larrasoaña took us 3 hours, and when we finally stumbled in, drenched in rain, all four of us were done for the day.
The path had large sections that were steep and rocky. We needed to get both girls out of the stroller to lift it over boulders and bully it over uneven terrain. We made it through difficult sections with much help from fellow pilgrims. Addie enjoyed holding hands with new friends as she climbed the big hills all by herself. She was so proud when people told her how strong she was.
There were a few sections we needed Addie to walk, when she would have preferred to ride, and we encouraged forward walking by playing ‘what time is it Mr. Wolf?’ through the woods.
The rain picked up right as we neared Larrasoaña, both girls were upset, and we were beyond eager to find a cafe to call a cab to Pamplona. We’d have stopped in Larrasoaña for the night, but we’ve utilized luggage forwarding services to avoid carrying heavy packs and we have needed to make advanced reservations for the luggage and to guarantee private rooms.
Larrasoaña, however, was a ghost town when we stumbled in. I used my broken Spanish to ask where a cafe was, and we were told that it was closed that time of day. We went to the municipal albergue (pilgrim’s hostel) to try to get a taxi from there, but it was closed as well. Thankfully answered our knock and let us sit inside to wait for a taxi while she cleaned.
We got to Pamplona cold, wet, and a little bedraggled. We had pinchos and coffees for lunch, and then despite the cold, delicious ice cream for dessert.
We checked into our hotel, washed our muddle clothes, and then went for dinner with two nice ladies from Minnesota.
The day had as many ups and downs as the hills we hiked, but we feel accomplished after navigating all of those obstacles on the trail, and we are energized at the thought of exploring Pamplona tomorrow.
you guys are my trail warriors. that picture of Addie holding a ladies pole is so so sweet. I am with you , cheering you on as always!
You should be very proud of how you are tackling your Camino. No such thing as a right or wrong way. Taking a taxi when you must just increases the likelihood that you will get to Santiago. There are spots along the way when you absolutely will have to get a cab, due to hills and rough terrain. There are other stretches, such as the Meseta when you will experience beautiful smooth trails stretching to the horizon. In the end, you will have completed an adventure to last a lifetime
I am so proud of the grace you are affording yourself in these early days. It’s cliched to say it’s a marathon not a sprint, but also what you’re doing it way longer than a marathon, so you gotta go easy on yourself!