The morning started off rather unnoteworthy. We got the girls up, had breakfast, and left the albergue immediately turning in the opposite direction of everyone else in our guesthouse, toward the Valcarlos route.
There are two main routes to get from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. There is the Napoleon route that goes up and over the Pyrenees, or there is the Valcarlos route that goes down and around.
We had been told to plan for the Valcarlos route, but we were determined to hike the Pyrenees… and then the weather didn’t cooperate forcing us to take the Valcarlos valley route.
I had worried about the traffic on the Valcarlos route, which follows the main road, and thought it would be unscenic and boring. For the first 13 kilometers to Valcarlos, my fears were unfounded.
The valley treated us to breathtaking views. It is incredibly lush and green here. I said to Sandra at one point that the Valcarlos route has been greatly undersold.
It rained steadily, but none of us minded. Addie alternated between riding in the stroller and walking in her bright blue rain suit. Other pilgrims wished her “buen camino” to which she replied, “Buen Camino! I’m brave and strong and I can do anything by my own.” Exactly the takeaway we want for her.
Addie was excited to stomp in puddles and she delighted in little waterfalls of rain runoff and a tiny snail we found in the grass.
Eloise slept the entire way.
We had also worried when we first set out that we would be walking on our own, but there were plenty of pilgrims on the lower route. I was told the Napoleon pass was closed, though we later met pilgrims who had walked it despite the weather. We met many kind people over the course of the day, most of whom were eager to meet the tiny pilgrims. We met a young lady from France walking with her grandmother, and the two of them pulled our stroller out of the rain at lunch and chatted with the girls, mostly in French. Addie is picking up a few words in French and Spanish, though she has been frustrated at not understanding what is being spoken to her.
The afternoon on the Valcarlos route was where the day took a turn. Our route map showed us leaving the roads and taking a steep ascent to Roncesvalles. Our stroller is difficult to push on the hills, and we weren’t certain we could handle 11 kilometers of difficult ascent. We gave ourselves a pep talk, however, and headed out.
We made it 3.5 kilometers, until we turned off the road and saw the difficulty of the forest path. Had it been just Sandra and I, the path would have been tiring but otherwise fine. It was too narrow and steep, however, for us to comfortably chance with the stroller. It didn’t seem like a difficult obstacle, which even then we would reasses; it seemed unsafe. So we turned around and walked 3.5 kilometers back to Valcarlos.
We only briefly continued following the road. That route was longer than the foot path, and with our steps retraced, would have been close to 30 kilometers total. Plus the road was winding and the traffic on the blind corners made us nervous. Later, as we took a taxi to Roncesvalles where our bags awaited, we were relieved we hadn’t taken the road. The fog near Roncesvalles would have made the walk incredibly hazardous.
Taking a taxi into Roncesvalles wasn’t how we intended to start our Camino, and it has left us full of doubts for what is to come, but we are proud of our first day. All total, we walked about 21 kilometers, and the first stretch was one of the most beautiful days of our lives. We felt better after a hot dinner, and we will head out tomorrow and once again see what happens.
Tomorrow, we follow forest paths, the accessibility of which makes us nervous, but the route does not ascend and shouldn’t be steep or following any cliffs or ledges. We won’t be on the road. We worry if our stroller can get through, but there should be nothing tomorrow that has us reversing course over safety concerns.
We have our first 5 nights booked, as we wanted to ensure private accommodation, and we are going to reasses the length of each stage before booking the second set of 5 nights.
However, slow but sure, even if it means the odd taxi to accommodate our big stroller, we are going to make it to Santiago.
Buen Camino Addie!
I’m in awe of this adventure
Warrior women, all 4 of youđź’Şđź’–
You continue to inspire!
Don’t judge yourselves if you take a taxi. Its your Camino, do it your way. We walked the entire route in 2016. Doing it again next year but planning to “Stop and Smell the Roses” a lot. Will keep to our planned 45 days by taking taxis as the need or the urge arises. And it will be as much of an accomplishment as our first one.
Much respect to you for what you are doing.
Much respect to you for the lifestyle you are introducing the kids to.
Thank you, Brian. I walked solo in 2014 and put a lot of pressure on myself to walk the whole way, but this time it is refreshing to do what we can and just enjoy the walk. We are having a great time, no matter how we get to Santiago!